Wondrous Bali

I have a confession; I broke my “cleanse” today. Before jumping to any conclusions or disappointments, let me explain…

The last three days I have been excellent in denying temptation. Even on a Friday night out at the Jazz Café here in Ubud, I declined a drink and only had a pot of green tea. Yesterday, upon meeting a German friend at yoga, I passed on a social cup of coffee and instead had an “Enzyme Energy” smoothie. Needless to say, I feel I’ve been keeping my determination fairly well. However, today posed a scenario that would be ludicrous not to enjoy.

My original plan for today was to wake-up and enjoy a nice breakfast, perhaps buy some local fruit and then to take the motorbike for a drive in an attempt to find the Elephant Cave. I’ve attempted to find various temples over the last three days and each attempt has been futile. The day ends with me being lost for hours and eventually just meandering my way back to Ubud. I’m not complaining though. Those days are sometimes the most enjoyable with seeing true, local Balinese life. Although…. It would be nice to actually find something for a change.

The morning started off perfect. I found a small, hole-in-the-wall café named Tukies Café (*Note: If you’re in Bali and want to find this café there address is Main Street… no number, because you know… it’s Bali).

I had some delicious fruit with yoghurt and a green tea all for less than $2. Additionally, something that turned most tourists away when walking in yet immediately caught my fancy, the café served Balinese bakery goods (no western croissants or pain au chocolates). Knowing I’d be hungry during my drive, I bought four different treats. They were:

Dadar (A Balinese pancake with a green exterior color). No photo, I ate it too fast!

Bantal 

Stick rice with coconut and banana wrapped in a young banana leaf

Samping 

Rice flour, coconut and banana

Onde Onde 

(Owners favorite)

Sticky rice, mung bean and sesame

With a box full of goodies, I was feeling confident that my drive should prove a success! I had torn out a map from a lonely planet book that I own and had circled the location of the Elephant Cave. I began driving in the direction that I was certain to be correct. However, it was not. I ended up driving back and fourth up this main street about an hour away from Ubud three times each direction. Mind you, this was not a “tourist” area. The locals were all staring at the ding-dong blonde zipping back and fourth and back and fourth. Until finally, a local Balinese man motioned me to pull over. He asked the ever-popular question “Where are you going?”.

I laughed and pulled out my map and told him I was trying to drive to the Elephant Cave. He looked confused and said “O yes, that’s near Ubud”. That was an immediate sign to me that I am no longer “near Ubud” myself. He started to give me verbal directions and motion signals when he saw my utter confusion. He smiled and said, “Would you like me to escort you?” And just like that… I had a personal Balinese tour guide for the day.

My new friends name is Made which means he is the second born of his family. He is a local who works here in Bali at a Agro-tourism place (which I will mention later).  Today’s experience with Made may have been the most authentic, rewarding and special day I’ve had in Southeast Asia. He drove his motorbike and I followed. Along the drive he would stop and ask, “This is nice spot, would you like to make a picture?” and then continue on. He took me to a waterfall that cost less than $1 for an entry fee and he walked me down to the base of the falls (which I doubt any other guides or tourists would endure that trek).  Once there, he offered to take my picture and continued to explain some fun stories from his childhood. He pointed to the rocks that, when the water level is higher, he and his siblings used to jump from. Imaging the life of a Balinese child through Made’s stories was a new alternative to my own upbringing.

After the waterfall, Made and I drove to his Agro-Tourism business. It is called Kebune Bali (https://www.facebook.com/kebunebali.agrotourism?fref=ts). And here, my friends, is where I broke my “cleanse”. Kebune in Balinese means garden. Here at Made’s shop, there is a coffee, chocolate and tea garden. All of the beans are grown and harvested in a traditional manner. Additionally, Kebune Bali serves what is known as Luwak Coffee. A style of coffee known around the world, Luwak Coffee is harvested beans that have passed through the digestive system of the civet animal (yes, the beans come from the poop). Putri, a sweet girl working at the shop, explained the process to me.

First, the civet eats the coffee cherries and it ferments in the stomach before passing through the digestive system. The locals then find the beans and clean them in hot water. After the cleansing, the beans are dried in the sun and roasted in a traditional stone fire until black. Once black, the beans are ground and then shifted to create the coffee powder. The process after the fermentation/excrement stage is one-hour. This style of coffee is becoming internationally popular because of its unique taste and health benefits. Since the process is normally a more limited supply, a cup of this coffee can cost quite the pretty penny. Even at Paresa Resort in Thailand, a similar coffee was offered and cost $25 per cup. Yet, at Kebune Bali, it only cost $5.

Photo: Top right is the beans after being processed through the civet. Then the other beans are after the cleaning processes and having dried in the sun

 Photo: The wood fire place used to roast the beans

Another fantastic thing about Kebune Bali was that with your cup of Luwak Coffee, you receive 15 free tea and coffee samples from the various plants grown in the garden! Also, samples of the three types of chocolates made from the freshly grown cocoa beans that were a milk, caramel and orange chocolate. My favorite tea was made from the skin of the mangosteen fruit and is good for the skin, in preventing cancer and reducing stress. My favorite coffee sample was a ginseng coffee with caramel. A popular drink in Korea, the description said it had natural aphrodisiacs. When I asked sweet Putri if she knew what an aphrodisiac is, she laughed and said “It’s good for Honeymoon!” and Made chimed in and said “Yes! Father tested, Wife approved!” O the Balinese humor is my favorite.

Photo: Garden fresh spices and sugars

Photo: Cup of Luwak Coffee with a Cinnamon Stick to stir

Photo: My lovely tea and coffee samples! 

Photo: Putri, a Balinese girl

So yes, I am guilty of having both coffee AND chocolate while at Kebune Bali. However, it was at the expense of a true cultural experience and no “cleanse” is more important than the knowledge I gained.

To end our adventure, Made and I finally reached the Elephant Cave. After all the fun and unique places he’d taken me, I was not as thrilled once reaching this tourist picture background. Again, my guide made the experience. He told me that there aren’t even elephants in Bali and that the cave is named simply because of the statue on the inside. Once inside the cave, he blessed me with holy water that was next to the statue’s offerings. First by dipping a flower in the water and dashing my face three times, then placing three grains of rice on my forehead between my eyes and lastly having me eat three grains of white rice. He said that this aligns the mind, body and spirit, which is important. He laughed and said that now I am Balinese!

Photo: Entrance to the Elephant Cave

Photo: Traditional offerings inside the cave

Made escorted me back via our motorbikes to a main intersection in Ubud (literally impossible for me to get lost from there). Of course, I was assuming he’d want me to pay him or tip him or something for showing me around over several hours. However, he just smiled and declined the money. He said he is just happy to make a new friend who wants to learn about the culture of his island. Made gave me his phone number and said to call whenever I want a Bali guide. These are the days I wouldn’t trade for anything. I can say with all my heart; I love Bali.