Go Phi Phi!

CLIMBING IN PHI PHI

Remarkably, this past weekend was my last in Thailand. Time has truly escaped me. Or maybe I've escaped it...

Although friends invited me to party on Bangala Road one last time in Patong or to have a reggae themed beach day, I instead chose to go to Kho Phi Phi on a rock climbing adventure. Through connections and fortune, I was introduced to Rixardo who is an Italian tourism worker living in Phuket. He and his Thai girlfriend, Suprawnee, are adamant climbers who have built a personal bouldering wall in their yard and host training sessions followed by delicious homestyle BBQ's. I attended my first session on Thursday and knew these were the type of people who would be excellent climbing mentors. Rixardo is also the writer of the only Phuket climbing blog (Phuketclimbing.Blogspot.com).

Therefore, the plan was set and the three of us, along with a Russian friend named Tanya, set fourth to climb in Phi Phi. The boat ride was about 2hrs and thanks to Suprawnee being Thai and having local leverage, the cost was only 600baht roundtrip. On the boat, there was free coffee as well which of course made my morning much better (especially since we left for the pier at 7am!).

Once we had arrived in Phi Phi, I'll admit the tourism atmosphere was apparent. Boat loads of mass tourism groups from China, India, etc. charged the island by the hundreds. A swarm of sun umbrellas, rampant toddlers and oversized roller luggage set an obstacle course for us backpack wielding climbers to hurdle through. Once we safely dislocated ourselves from the herd, we began walking towards the less touristy side of the beach and towards the climbing area. Rixardo and Suprawnee chose a local bungalow that cost only 500baht a night for a private with fan and is beach front. The setting was perfect and upon check-in free the rooms provided a free water bottle along with some toiletries such as shampoo, Q-tips and body soap.

The island is truly breathtaking though. The water reflects a pristine turquoise color that changes shade to disclose the various reefs and coral life hidden below. Staggering limestone cliffs with dripping stalactites and sprouting greenery look almost prehistoric and can easily be imagined as a once submerged underwater reef. Laying underneath a palm tree on the white sandy beach and watching the water reflect drips of diamond sunlight makes it difficult to imagine why anyone could be stressed or worried.

View from the climbing sight

Longtail boat 

Tonsai Wall!

The climbing was also as pristine as the scenery! We spent the weekend climbing at Tonsai wall which was perhaps a 2-minute walk from the edge of the beach. The backdrop was the costal line and pier and could even peak over into the other side of the bay. The wall is quite exposed though and climbing is only possible very early in the morning or else after noon. Fortunately, not many tourists rock climb and so the rock was virtually ours to play on. The first day we climbed between 5-6 routes running 2 ropes and even completed a multi pitch. In total, we climbed for nearly 5 hrs and saw no one.

Each route has unique characteristics and the grades range from 5's up to 7b+. Overall, the rock quality is better than in Tonsai (Railay) because the routes are less polished and abused. Additionally, the overall route options in Phi Phi were easier than Tonsai so for beginners there is a wider range of options.

Rixardo attempting to send a 7b+

Suprawnee on Lead

A recommendation for those intending to climb in Phi Phi: Watch out for the monkey's! There were whole families of monkeys walking around the climbing site and they are often curious and even little thieves. Plus, they can get aggressive. Pay attention to your surrounding and watch out for the Alpha Male! If they bare their teeth, step away slowly. Also, always let them pass first and just be patient.

The second day I completed a (soft) 6b which was incredibly exciting for me since that's the hardest grade I've yet to do! The weekend went fast and in total we only spent about 30hrs on the actual island of Phi Phi. Apparently there is a fire show at night on the island but we had been too exhausted from the day of climbing to attend.

If you are curious about climbing and want to be introduced to the sport, Kho Phi Phi is a beautiful location to learn. There are many guide agencies on the island that can take you and provide gear, as well.

Climb on!