“The trip was to be an odyssey in the fullest sense of the word, an epic
journey that would change everything. He had spent the previous four years, as
he saw it, preparing to fulfill an absurd and onerous duty: to graduate from college.
At long last he was unencumbered, emancipated from the stifling world of his
parents and peers, a world of abstraction and security and material excess, a
world in which he felt grievously cut off from the raw throb of existence.”
JOHN KRAKAUER
INTO THE WILD
Family and friends knew I was trekking in Nepal for a few
weeks, however the detail of doing it alone was purposefully omitted
beforehand. Following a five-month experience through Thailand and Bali, I
concluded that solo trekking in Nepal was a cultural threshold to challenge and
measure my traveling abilities. I am a 22-year-old, recent college graduate
from Washington. A blonde female with a friendly personality; people often
worry I am a recipe for foreign disaster. However, the world is not a scary
place. Should one be brave enough to plunge out of the comfort zone of western
lavishes; a world of nature, culture, food, people, laughter, smiles, tears,
sweat, beauty and life…awaits.
I understand the anticipation and nervousness before leaving
for Nepal to trek. Researching beforehand results in limitless companies
offering guided services, porters, full-blown itineraries and more. Independent
traveler bloggers are also in the mix of Google findings, urgently advising to
wait until arriving before booking anything. My experience coincides with the
latter.
The result? I completed a 15-day unguided and unassisted
trek through the Nepali Himalaya Everest Region for roughly half the cost and
double the experience of online offered services.
My journey started in Katmandu, where within 10-minutes of
arriving Alobar100 hostel, a plethora of eager trekkers existed to make friends
and persuade a spontaneous adventure.
Tyler the Canadian was my first encounter and immediate trekking friend.
Himself and another Canadian named Sean, whom he’d also met at the hostel,
unfolded to me their plan. Bypassing the expensive 45-minute flight to Lukla, an
option that every tourist does, and alternatively begin trekking in a small
village named Jiri. Ultimately,
Jiri would add between six to seven days of walking before reaching the Lukla
starting point. The reward would be extra physical conditioning before the main
trails, gradual increase into altitude to alleviate time and severity of
acclimatization, as well as a “trail less traveled” experience of authentic
culture and untainted scenery. With little additional questions, I signed on
board and we planned to leave the next morning.
The number one lesson I’ve learned from traveling, and
specifically while traveling in Southern Asia, is simple: Time is not concrete.
As a westerner, I am often inherently drawn towards deadlines. Asking questions
such as how long a journey will take, at what time it begins, when to expect it
to end, and so on. Nepal, like other Asian countries, is not so concerned about
timelines and other such unnecessary specifications. My experience of a jeep ride from Kathmandu to Jiri is the
prime example. Originally informed the drive would take 5hrs, our group arrived
a mere 12hrs later. In defense, a landslide had occurred which blocked the main
road. Therefore, the drive undertook back roads of wet mud, steep hills and
unpaved highways. On multiple occasions, my two comrades and myself were
ordered to evacuate the vehicle into shin-high mud and begin pushing our “jeep”
(miniature van with donut wheels is more accurate) up slick hillsides and to
walk up ourselves, reentering the vehicle at the top. Regardless of the days
eventfulness and the hour of arrival, we were in Jiri as planned.
A hostel worker had warned us that the first day of the Jiri
trek would be the most challenging, yet also shortest. Therefore, the next
morning our group awoke with a vigorous excitement and determination to work
hard and enjoy every drop of sweat earned. However, a few days into the trek,
we came to the conclusion that the worker may have mistranslated. The first day
of the trek was not the hardest; rather the entire week trek from Jiri to Lukla
would be the most physically, emotionally and mentally challenging days of the
15-20 day itinerary we’d planned. Endlessly relentless valleys encumbered by
boulder steps and unmarked yak trails blended the days together. Monotonous climbing
of mountains to descend down into valleys to sleep, awake, and climb back out
and descend again into the next. Average days consisted of 7hrs of trekking,
while some longer days passed 9hrs. Additionally, the route traversed through
rainforest scenery. With the end of monsoon season approaching, we were caught
amongst rainstorms that turned trails into muddy rivers and steps into
chocolate waterfalls. The overall image reminded me of Willie Wonka’s chocolate
factory, but substitute the Oomba-Loompa’s with blood sucking leeches. Within
the first few days, all clothes were drenched from rain, sweat or blood.
Conversations about hygienic conditions were outlawed amongst the group, as the
acceptance of our less than pleasant conditions was inevitable.
Although the drudgery might deter some travelers, the
remunerations were far greater. Nepali locals greeted us with open arms and
genuine smiles. Every pass was an exchange of Namaste and joyful intrigue. On
several occasions, our group was informed that we were the first western
visitors in several months. Bottomless Dal Baht, cultural knowledge galore and
vast, unaltered nature filled our days. Along the trail, throughout the entire
week, I met six other trekkers (whom we inevitably became friends with). There
were three groups of three and it became a miniature race of one passing the
other and all virtually ending at similar locations and exchange experiences
from the day.
My last six days were spent alone. I departed my friends in
Namche and went my own to Gokyo. Resulting from the incredible endurance gained
after the Jiri trek, I reached the famous lakeside town in only two days. Misty
mountain clouds engulfed the valley when I arrived so that all my eyes could
see was eerie prayer stones and cobbled shorelines. Exhausted, I retired for
the evening immediately upon being situated. The next morning unveiled my
reward. Ice blue pristine lakes with cascading mountains reflected like a
mirrors to bewilder the eyes, yaks roaming through fields while collared bells
chime the mountain culture songs and Gokyo Ri Peak watching over the glacier
valley like a protective entity. All the stress before arriving, sweat from
trekking, pain from exhaustion was gone. Moments like this are the sorts of
dreams. Moments like this are the reason we travel. Moments like this are the
reason I live.
Though I don't normally include trip specifics (as far as money spent), I think this is useful information for anyone wanting to trek alone like me. Below is the cost breakdown and specifications of my trek.
Jiri to Gokyo Trekking Destinations and Times:
DAY TWO
Jiri to Shivalya
4hrs. Trekking
DAY THREE
Shivalya to Kenja
9.5hrs. Trekking
DAY FOUR
Kenja to Himalayan
Lodge (just below)
7hrs. Trekking
DAY FIVE
Himalayan Lodge to
Renja
9.5rs. Trekking (I got lost)
DAY SIX
Renja to Kharikhola
5.5hrs. Trekking
DAY SEVEN
Kharikhola to Surke
6hrs. Trekking
DAY EIGHT
Surke to Monjo
5.5hrs. Trekking
DAY NINE
Monjo to Namche
2.15hrs. Trekking
DAY TEN
Namche Rest Day
DAY ELEVEN
Namche to Dole
4.5hrs Trekking
DAY TWELVE
Dole to Gokyo
4.5hrs. Trekking
DAY THIRTEEN
Gokyo to Gokyo Ri Peak
5hrs. Roundtrip
DAY FOURTEEN
Gokyo to Namche
8hrs. Trekking
DAY FIFTEEN
Namche to Lukla
6hrs. Trekking
DAY SIXTEEN
Lukla to Kathmandu
45min Flight
Jiri to Gokyo Cost Breakdown:
·
TIMS Hiking Permit = $20
·
Hiking Permit #1 = $20 (only required if not
flying into Lukla)
·
Hiking Permit #2 = $30
·
Jeep Transport to Jiri = $70 (landslide detour
resulted in extra cost)
·
Gear and Clothes Shopping = $175
·
Storage in Kathmandu = $5 (18 days)
·
Flight Lukla to Kathmandu = $165 (one-way)
·
3 weeks “Adventure” Insurance = $130
·
30-day Nepal Visa on Arrival = $40
·
Jiri to Namche Food and Accomdation = $150
·
Namche to Gokyo to Lukla = $160
J
Any further questions? I am happy to help.
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