Trekking Solo in the Himalaya's

“The trip was to be an odyssey in the fullest sense of the word, an epic journey that would change everything. He had spent the previous four years, as he saw it, preparing to fulfill an absurd and onerous duty: to graduate from college. At long last he was unencumbered, emancipated from the stifling world of his parents and peers, a world of abstraction and security and material excess, a world in which he felt grievously cut off from the raw throb of existence.”

JOHN KRAKAUER

INTO THE WILD

Family and friends knew I was trekking in Nepal for a few weeks, however the detail of doing it alone was purposefully omitted beforehand. Following a five-month experience through Thailand and Bali, I concluded that solo trekking in Nepal was a cultural threshold to challenge and measure my traveling abilities. I am a 22-year-old, recent college graduate from Washington. A blonde female with a friendly personality; people often worry I am a recipe for foreign disaster. However, the world is not a scary place. Should one be brave enough to plunge out of the comfort zone of western lavishes; a world of nature, culture, food, people, laughter, smiles, tears, sweat, beauty and life…awaits.   

I understand the anticipation and nervousness before leaving for Nepal to trek. Researching beforehand results in limitless companies offering guided services, porters, full-blown itineraries and more. Independent traveler bloggers are also in the mix of Google findings, urgently advising to wait until arriving before booking anything. My experience coincides with the latter.

The result? I completed a 15-day unguided and unassisted trek through the Nepali Himalaya Everest Region for roughly half the cost and double the experience of online offered services.

My journey started in Katmandu, where within 10-minutes of arriving Alobar100 hostel, a plethora of eager trekkers existed to make friends and persuade a spontaneous adventure.  Tyler the Canadian was my first encounter and immediate trekking friend. Himself and another Canadian named Sean, whom he’d also met at the hostel, unfolded to me their plan. Bypassing the expensive 45-minute flight to Lukla, an option that every tourist does, and alternatively begin trekking in a small village named Jiri.  Ultimately, Jiri would add between six to seven days of walking before reaching the Lukla starting point. The reward would be extra physical conditioning before the main trails, gradual increase into altitude to alleviate time and severity of acclimatization, as well as a “trail less traveled” experience of authentic culture and untainted scenery. With little additional questions, I signed on board and we planned to leave the next morning.

The number one lesson I’ve learned from traveling, and specifically while traveling in Southern Asia, is simple: Time is not concrete. As a westerner, I am often inherently drawn towards deadlines. Asking questions such as how long a journey will take, at what time it begins, when to expect it to end, and so on. Nepal, like other Asian countries, is not so concerned about timelines and other such unnecessary specifications.  My experience of a jeep ride from Kathmandu to Jiri is the prime example. Originally informed the drive would take 5hrs, our group arrived a mere 12hrs later. In defense, a landslide had occurred which blocked the main road. Therefore, the drive undertook back roads of wet mud, steep hills and unpaved highways. On multiple occasions, my two comrades and myself were ordered to evacuate the vehicle into shin-high mud and begin pushing our “jeep” (miniature van with donut wheels is more accurate) up slick hillsides and to walk up ourselves, reentering the vehicle at the top. Regardless of the days eventfulness and the hour of arrival, we were in Jiri as planned.

A hostel worker had warned us that the first day of the Jiri trek would be the most challenging, yet also shortest. Therefore, the next morning our group awoke with a vigorous excitement and determination to work hard and enjoy every drop of sweat earned. However, a few days into the trek, we came to the conclusion that the worker may have mistranslated. The first day of the trek was not the hardest; rather the entire week trek from Jiri to Lukla would be the most physically, emotionally and mentally challenging days of the 15-20 day itinerary we’d planned. Endlessly relentless valleys encumbered by boulder steps and unmarked yak trails blended the days together. Monotonous climbing of mountains to descend down into valleys to sleep, awake, and climb back out and descend again into the next. Average days consisted of 7hrs of trekking, while some longer days passed 9hrs. Additionally, the route traversed through rainforest scenery. With the end of monsoon season approaching, we were caught amongst rainstorms that turned trails into muddy rivers and steps into chocolate waterfalls. The overall image reminded me of Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory, but substitute the Oomba-Loompa’s with blood sucking leeches. Within the first few days, all clothes were drenched from rain, sweat or blood. Conversations about hygienic conditions were outlawed amongst the group, as the acceptance of our less than pleasant conditions was inevitable.

Although the drudgery might deter some travelers, the remunerations were far greater. Nepali locals greeted us with open arms and genuine smiles. Every pass was an exchange of Namaste and joyful intrigue. On several occasions, our group was informed that we were the first western visitors in several months. Bottomless Dal Baht, cultural knowledge galore and vast, unaltered nature filled our days. Along the trail, throughout the entire week, I met six other trekkers (whom we inevitably became friends with). There were three groups of three and it became a miniature race of one passing the other and all virtually ending at similar locations and exchange experiences from the day.

My last six days were spent alone. I departed my friends in Namche and went my own to Gokyo. Resulting from the incredible endurance gained after the Jiri trek, I reached the famous lakeside town in only two days. Misty mountain clouds engulfed the valley when I arrived so that all my eyes could see was eerie prayer stones and cobbled shorelines. Exhausted, I retired for the evening immediately upon being situated. The next morning unveiled my reward. Ice blue pristine lakes with cascading mountains reflected like a mirrors to bewilder the eyes, yaks roaming through fields while collared bells chime the mountain culture songs and Gokyo Ri Peak watching over the glacier valley like a protective entity. All the stress before arriving, sweat from trekking, pain from exhaustion was gone. Moments like this are the sorts of dreams. Moments like this are the reason we travel. Moments like this are the reason I live.  

Though I don't normally include trip specifics (as far as money spent), I think this is useful information for anyone wanting to trek alone like me. Below is the cost breakdown and specifications of my trek. 

Jiri to Gokyo Trekking Destinations and Times:

DAY TWO

Jiri to Shivalya

4hrs. Trekking

DAY THREE

Shivalya to Kenja

9.5hrs. Trekking

DAY FOUR

Kenja to Himalayan Lodge (just below)

7hrs. Trekking

DAY FIVE

Himalayan Lodge to Renja

9.5rs. Trekking (I got lost)

DAY SIX

Renja to Kharikhola

5.5hrs. Trekking

DAY SEVEN

Kharikhola to Surke

6hrs. Trekking

DAY EIGHT

Surke to Monjo

5.5hrs. Trekking

DAY NINE

Monjo to Namche

2.15hrs. Trekking

DAY TEN

Namche Rest Day

DAY ELEVEN

Namche to Dole

4.5hrs Trekking

DAY TWELVE

Dole to Gokyo

4.5hrs. Trekking

DAY THIRTEEN

Gokyo to Gokyo Ri Peak

5hrs. Roundtrip

DAY FOURTEEN

Gokyo to Namche

8hrs. Trekking

DAY FIFTEEN

Namche to Lukla

6hrs. Trekking

DAY SIXTEEN

Lukla to Kathmandu

45min Flight

Jiri to Gokyo Cost Breakdown:

·      TIMS Hiking Permit = $20

·      Hiking Permit #1 = $20 (only required if not flying into Lukla)

·      Hiking Permit #2 = $30

·      Jeep Transport to Jiri = $70 (landslide detour resulted in extra cost)

·      Gear and Clothes Shopping = $175

·      Storage in Kathmandu = $5 (18 days)

·      Flight Lukla to Kathmandu = $165 (one-way)

·      3 weeks “Adventure” Insurance = $130

·      30-day Nepal Visa on Arrival = $40

·      Jiri to Namche Food and Accomdation = $150

·      Namche to Gokyo to Lukla = $160

J

Any further questions? I am happy to help.