Chang Me? No, Chiang Mai!!

Chiang Mai serves as a refreshing escape from the tourism saturated islands of Southern Thailand. Unique and authentic culture fills the historic streets of Chiang Mai’s old city. Enclosed by a 700 year old moat lays a labyrinth of endless small local restaurants, shops and temples. Additionally, this is the first city I've truly seen a military presence during the coup. Soldiers are stationed throughout the main points of the area and military hummers are constantly patrolling. Do not worry though - they are incredibly friendly. I was even able to take my first "Military Selfie" which I consider a complete cultural success. Today is my fourth day and I have gained an exceptional introduction experience into the cultural of this historic city.

If you are traveling, do not be stressed to create specific accommodation plans. Upon my arrival at the airport, a taxi drove me to the Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventure company for 80baht (since my goal for this trip was climbing, I figured this was a good starting point.) From there, I simply strolled up the road for less than five minutes and saw endless hostels, guesthouses, hotels, etc. I personally chose a small guesthouse called Baan NaNa (the name was easy enough to remember – Banana!) The guesthouse is simple, affordable and included free breakfast. If that wasn’t enough of a seller, there is an old tuk-tuk that has been turned into a bar and also an authentic French crepe stand in front – perfect for late night snacks and drinks!

My first day was spent wandering the streets in an attempt to become oriented. The city is truly beautiful and well manicured. The old moat spouts fountains and hosts homes to grass lawns, trees and flower gardens. Within the inner city there are multiple temples whose golden peaks and artfully decorated roofs can be seen popping out from behind stonewalls. The city is a beautiful combination of East and West. A refreshing breathe of true Thai culture.

My personal favorite restaurant during my first few days is called the Funky Monkey Café. A small stand with a few dozen chairs around it, the Funky Monkey serves delicious smoothies as well as Fanang (foreign) and Thai food for incredibly cheap prices! Keep aware of the price differences throughout the old city. If a restaurant or coffee house looks westernized, the prices most likely are, too. I’ve found coffee for 75baht and some for 20baht. Keep an open eye and good deals are everywhere.

While in Chiang Mai I had the pleasure of playing Ultimate Frisbee Pick-Up with the local team here (https://www.facebook.com/groups/cm.ultimate/ ) – A great group of locals and foreigners who get together every Monday, Thursday and Saturday @ 5pm. It was a co-ed field and the skill levels ranged from beginner to experienced. Overall, a very laidback and fun atmosphere with a great group! After the matches, the team was friendly and even invited me to join and watch the Germany vs. USA World Cup match at a popular local meeting point called the UN Irish Pub.

I spent most of the day Friday exploring and also doing some climbing conditioning at CMRCA ( https://www.facebook.com/thailandclimbing?fref=nf ). Although the gym only hosts a small bouldering wall with roughly 10-15 routes, it is a resource I recommend for anyone coming to Chiang Mai for climbing. The gym has weights, fingerboards and other means of conditioning. Additionally, gear rental and organized climbing and caving trips are possible from here.  If you are an experienced climber with your own gear, there is also the option of transportation out to the popular Crazy Horse crag with lunch included for 300baht round trip. I met my climbing partner through the bulletin board that advertises local climbing news and fellow solo traveling climbers. 

Crazy Horse was a fantastic area for climbing. My partners and I did various lead climbs in Tamarind Village, the Furnace and Crazy Horse crag. The rock is encompassed by fantastic jungle scenery and boosts a secluded, natural setting that is refreshing after areas such as Tonsai and Railay. Routes vary with difficulties ranging between 5a – 7b+. CMRCA also works to help maintain routes and bolts so the area is safe and up-to-date.  My personal favorite was called route was in Tamarind Village and is called the Chimney Sweep. A 6a, 6 bolt route that is just fun! Highly recommended.  Bring plenty of mosquito spray when going to Crazy Horse and be aware that June-October hosts the monsoon season as well as wasp season so be wary of that!

After climbing, my new friend Steve and I rode the moped around the maze of Chiang Mai just exploring back alleyways and secret streets. A great find during this adventure was called Beer Republic. Now, as much as we backpackers love Chang and Leo… a nice western beer is sure appreciated from time to time. Beer Republic offers draft beers from Germany, Belgium, England and so on. Additionally, they sell beer samplers! Steve and I enjoyed a good Hefeweizen and IPA that was delicious and refreshing and tasted like you know… real beer.

Tonight is the famous Sunday Market here in Chiang Mai. Supposed to me a massive display of local crafts, trinkets and of course – FOOD! Tomorrow I depart for the infamous moped drive to Pai. The drive takes roughly 3 hrs and includes something along the lines of 170 turns, should be fun!

Any questions about Chiang Mai climbing, contact myself of CMRCA.

Wisdom Slap!

Yesterday I attended my ever first meditation session. Fortunately for myself, Thailand is an ideal setting for an introductory experience into the practice. The room was a small, vibrant yellow square with dim lighting and several cushions set in two rows of three. An immediate feeling of comfort and relaxation rushes over each participant upon entering the arena. Before explaining my experience, I feel a small background of my current emotional state is due.

I am undergoing my first true break-up. My ex and I had been dating for nearly four years and I can quite honestly say he was my best friend for all of them. Upon coming to Thailand, we ended our relationship and labeled this decision as us each needing to grow our own separate ways. The last several weeks has an emotional battle of letting go yet dreading the loss of love. As he told me about his struggles with adjusting to his home life and new relationships with different women, I often felt hurt and sadness consume me. In addition to the breakup, I have been feeling lost and the typical post-graduation depression of college. The questions of “Where am I going?” or “what do I want to do with my life?”, “Did I make the right decision to move to Thailand?”, “Should I just marry and reproduce?” Oh the mental battle was endless…. Friends would console me saying, “You deserve better” or “he’s never going to find someone as good as you” and so on. However, all the advice and comfort in the world would not change my personal demons and negative thoughts or feelings. And then, I experienced meditation.

The first 30-minutes was spent sitting in silence with closed eyes while attempting not to move. My legs were numb and tingling within ten. Once that sensation occurred, my thoughts wandered to the consequences. I thought, “My God! They’re going to have to amputate! I’m going to be a pirate legged Buddha!” or something dramatic to that effect. However, then my Guru spoke. He said that when the thoughts wander, bring them to the present. So, determined, I said “Alright thoughts, come here. Calm down. Focus” almost like luring a child with ice cream to sit through a wedding ceremony or any family event. After another set of unknown minutes, I realized my thoughts were actually becoming more centered. I tried to focus on the present moment, on my breathe, my numb legs, the sound of the water fountain outside….

Then, as if knowing I was prepared for the next challenge, the Guru asked “invision your Buddha, in whatever form. Picture them beaming with light of kindness, happiness and forgiving”. My Buddha was my grandmother. Immediately and without debate or preconceived thought, there she was. A small, orange robed grandma Sal, sitting cross-legged and softly smiling at me. The connection I felt to her was overwhelming. As she looked into my eyes, it wasn’t only a mental picture but physical caused warmth to spread. I confessed my worries, doubts, fears, anxieties, everything. Her expression never changed. She sat there, glowing with wisdom, smiling. Finally, without moving her lips, I heard this distant voice from within me say “I love you. You are divine and divinity is within you as within us all. You are happy and you are loved.”

Without being melodramatic, this voice created a sensation I have not felt over the last few weeks. I focused on my heart, the source of this feeling. And finally, I could feel my heartbeat again. Not only in an anatomical sense, but I could feel the glowing sensation of compassion and love for the world that I seem to have buried under the dramas of worry. This Grandma Buddha took my hand and dusted the ash from the collapsed relationship off my heart and showed to me that it still is golden and pure. I was on the verge of tears. My fear of losing love diminished. I can never lose love because I have love for myself and compassion for the whole world. I am capable of loving this whole world and all of life if I simply let go of the doubt.

Meditation ended with asking a prayer from our Buddha figures. I simply asked mine for strength, and again, with a smile, she looked deep into my eyes and heart and said, “My dear, you already have it.”

Birthday Adventure Part II - Ton Sai, Railay, Ao Nang

I'll Leave Ton Sai Tomorrow... MAYBE

A little known fact to non-sport enthusiasts; South East Asia is a paradise for various activities including rock climbing. Thailand, in particular, is world known for its geological beauty and diversity. Therefore, in an attempt to spoil myself in light of my birthday, I planned to explore some of these pristine formations. My original plan was to spend only a day on the beach of Ton Sai and to meet with my friend Felipa from New Zealand. Little did I know the heaven that was awaiting and would eventually consume me.

Our group began as four: my friend Emma from Paresa, good ol’ Matt, my new friend Shelly and myself. We traveled to the city of Ao Nang in the Krabi province via local transportation. For anyone curious, a bus from Phuket-Krabi is roughly 135baht, then a local bus/tuk-tuk from Krabi to Ao-Nang is 60baht so the trip is fairly cheap and takes roughly 3-4 hours. Sadly, we arrived in Ao Nang too late that evening to catch the last long tail to the island (last longtails depart at 6pm so our lesson is learned!). Therefore, the night was spent in Ao Nang. The typical events of eating, hookah smoking and casual drinking concluded our quiet evening in this adorable beach town.

The next day, however, we were determined to reach our island! Obviously, my plan of a one-night adventure was already about to be surpassed as now the tally marks two. The longtail costs 100baht and takes the group to Railay West. Railay is a popular tourist island that is the postcard image for any southern Thai beach. I have been here once before with Matt to attempt Deep Water Soloing and kayaking. As beautiful as Railay is, it is catered towards tourism and booms with resorts and small trinket and clothing shops. My inner backpacker struggles with paying too much for moderate accommodation in places such as Thailand. Plus, with the advice from Felipa, Ton Sai is the climbing community so I was eager to see what that exactly entailed.

If you walk along the beach of Railay West until it ends, you will find the shortest and fastest way of reaching Ton Sai. A slight crawl up some ocean rocks will reveal a rope left to guide the travelers to this hidden world. Roughly takes 10-15minutes and you must time the tide otherwise it is more of a swim! Upon emerging from this jungle trek, my heart immediately jumped for joy – we reached Ton Sai. What is the first thing I see? A magnificent, tall wall of rock exhibiting bouldering and sport climbing. People sat and were drinking beer casually as others were attempting routes and sweating teardrops. I thought, “I’ve died, this can’t be real”.

Continuing down the beach it is quick to see why this is a “climbing community”. The bars are no more than open-air wood shacks whose employees are laying in hammocks smoking joints and listening to reggae. Accommodation options consist of mostly jungle bungalows for 150baht a night. For this price, your room includes a bug net, an occasionally functional toilet and electricity between the hours of 6pm-6am only. The meeting point for new friends and fellow climbers is the ever-popular restaurant (or more so food truck) called Mama’s Chicken. Here, you order delicious Thai food and fresh fruit smoothies for never more than 90baht. Then, sitting in your colorful plastic child’s chair, you watch as fellow adventures pass by and wave with friendly smiles – this is the “main road”.

My new friend from Alaska phrased the energy of Ton Sai perfectly. He said that the bonding and the relationships you make in such a short amount of time on this island could only be compared to that of summer camp. Within days, you feel like you’ve known people for months. By the end of the week, you are all best friends. The days are spent climbing and the nights are spent chilling.

During my stay I did every type of climbing physically possible. The bouldering cave offers a dark, damp area with high ratings and old, dirty mattress crash pads. Sport climbing is endless with multi-pitch and single pitch options. (My personal favorite was called “The Groove Tube” – first route I’ve ever cleaned!). But my favorite type that is unique to Thailand? You guessed it! Deep Water Soloing…

Now after my previous entry of what I thought was DWS, I must admit I was terribly mistaken. My first experience with this sport could be compared to that of a kid being given only a black and gray crayon to color with. This second attempt… I was given the whole box! My world will never be the same!!

Various guides offer tours for DWS that cost roughly 800baht. However, if you have experience climbing and don’t mind just playing around, I offer a cheaper option. My group of Canadian friends and I rented our own personal longtail boat and driver. He drives us out to the popular island and stops at the routes we want to try. The routes are either in the climbing book (if you purchase one) or else easy to spot because there are ladders hanging from them. Then, the driver anchors and watches as you scramble and fall. Once finished, he’ll take you to the next stop and so on until you are too tired to even get in and out of the boat. For this full day of adventure, it costs merely 100baht per person in a group of 6+ people.

This experience was true DWS, I tried some amazing problems and ate some hard falls. One fall, in fact, was so hard that it snapped my bathing suit top! The boys of course had no complaints and I even found it hilarious. I guess that Victoria Secret was not prepared for going that crazy.

I could continue to write about all the people I met and all the fantastic climbs, but that would take ages. In a nutshell, I stayed in Ton Sai for 10 days and still was drug away. There is a joke of the island saying “I’ll leave Ton Sai tomorrow….. Maybe!”. I was the embodiment and victim of this saying so much so that my friend Andy even bought me a shirt to always remember it.

Any avid climbers, or even curious travelers for climbing, must add Ton Sai to their bucketlist. Not only for the routes or the rocks, but for the energy and vibe. I don’t think there is more of a climber paradise on this world.

Last travel advice:

- A boat from Railay East to Phuket only takes 2hrs and costs 600baht for those wanting a quicker option

- Bring LOTS of bug spray, the mosquito’s are little buggers in Ton Sai

- Cuts and scraps don’t heal well on the island so bring a basic medical kit because you’ll be sure to get a few and don’t want the bugs festering them away

Sorry for no pictures, my camera's were dead on a count of my lack of preparation for 10-days of travel!

Birthday Adventure, Part One

About two weeks ago was my 22^nd birthday. Given my previous sporadic blog posting, I know that updating on events after that length of time is not necessarily uncommon for me. However, within the last two weeks so much has happened that time seems to have snuck away from me more so than normal. A one-night birthday trip to Ao Nang ended as a 10-day adventure! Upon returning, I found out I have been working illegally for the past month and that my visa is being reported to Immigration…. Let’s backtrack a little to how this all started.

I am a June baby meaning my birthdays are normally ones of sunshine and warmth. This year was my first international celebration. Work gave me the day off and so I had the freedom to do whatever my heart desired. Therefore, I rented a moped for the first time since in Thailand. A new friend by the name of Shelly was visiting from Canada and also had no plans for the day so we paired up to tackle adventure. The original plan was to play with some tigers, get some lunch and then receive a Thai massage from one of the prisoners at the Phuket Prison (because that’s a thing here).  Our day started off well enough and typical of two North American female tourists. Got the bike, got lost, got coffee, got lost again, you know… normal. The amusing fact was the entire day ended up being an absolute downpour of rain. This was Mother Nature taking a water gun and aiming straight for our little motorbike. Since the day had been sunny when I first rented the bike, neither of us had any waterproof protection. At one point, a truck snuck up behind our bike and passed us through a miniature lake that had formed in the middle of the road and ultimately drenching us in street water. We both started laughing hysterically because the only comparison to the feeling was being on Splash Mountain and getting nailed at the slide. A small, old Thai women drove by on her moped (while wearing a poncho to protect from rain) and was just smiling and pointed to us saying only one word: “Wet” and then drove off, still smiling and laughing.

Finally, after our day continued like such for several hours, we reached the Tiger Kingdom! We paid full amount to play with both the smallest and the biggest tiger possible. Shelly was a little timid and nervous while I was in absolute heaven.

*A small confession; a few years ago I researched the requirements for owning a Tiger in America. Let’s just say it was out of my reach at the time, but I am simply obsessed with these creatures.

The paws were the size of my full hand from wrist to fingertip and lifting the tail felt like doing dumbbell weights. The tigers were so majestic and beautiful; I was simply in awe.

Between the rain and the ability of myself to get so easily lost, we were unable to do the Prison Massages, but it is still on my list before I leave. The night consisted of a few new friends coming over for dinner and I made good ol’ fashion Mac & Cheese! Matt and Shelly were adorable and surprised me with a birthday cake, candle and all, and everyone sang me Happy Birthday! The night ended with the group going to Patong and having several drinks which lead to dancing, laughing and pancake eating. For my first international birthday, I am fully satisfied and thankful for all the people that shared it with me 

Now, I could continue to tell you all about my incredible adventure the next day, or about Ton Sai rock climbing, or how I’m an illegal work immigrant… but where is the fun in telling the whole story at once! I’ll post Part Two next week so stay tuned….