Trekking Solo in the Himalaya's

“The trip was to be an odyssey in the fullest sense of the word, an epic journey that would change everything. He had spent the previous four years, as he saw it, preparing to fulfill an absurd and onerous duty: to graduate from college. At long last he was unencumbered, emancipated from the stifling world of his parents and peers, a world of abstraction and security and material excess, a world in which he felt grievously cut off from the raw throb of existence.”

JOHN KRAKAUER

INTO THE WILD

Family and friends knew I was trekking in Nepal for a few weeks, however the detail of doing it alone was purposefully omitted beforehand. Following a five-month experience through Thailand and Bali, I concluded that solo trekking in Nepal was a cultural threshold to challenge and measure my traveling abilities. I am a 22-year-old, recent college graduate from Washington. A blonde female with a friendly personality; people often worry I am a recipe for foreign disaster. However, the world is not a scary place. Should one be brave enough to plunge out of the comfort zone of western lavishes; a world of nature, culture, food, people, laughter, smiles, tears, sweat, beauty and life…awaits.   

I understand the anticipation and nervousness before leaving for Nepal to trek. Researching beforehand results in limitless companies offering guided services, porters, full-blown itineraries and more. Independent traveler bloggers are also in the mix of Google findings, urgently advising to wait until arriving before booking anything. My experience coincides with the latter.

The result? I completed a 15-day unguided and unassisted trek through the Nepali Himalaya Everest Region for roughly half the cost and double the experience of online offered services.

My journey started in Katmandu, where within 10-minutes of arriving Alobar100 hostel, a plethora of eager trekkers existed to make friends and persuade a spontaneous adventure.  Tyler the Canadian was my first encounter and immediate trekking friend. Himself and another Canadian named Sean, whom he’d also met at the hostel, unfolded to me their plan. Bypassing the expensive 45-minute flight to Lukla, an option that every tourist does, and alternatively begin trekking in a small village named Jiri.  Ultimately, Jiri would add between six to seven days of walking before reaching the Lukla starting point. The reward would be extra physical conditioning before the main trails, gradual increase into altitude to alleviate time and severity of acclimatization, as well as a “trail less traveled” experience of authentic culture and untainted scenery. With little additional questions, I signed on board and we planned to leave the next morning.

The number one lesson I’ve learned from traveling, and specifically while traveling in Southern Asia, is simple: Time is not concrete. As a westerner, I am often inherently drawn towards deadlines. Asking questions such as how long a journey will take, at what time it begins, when to expect it to end, and so on. Nepal, like other Asian countries, is not so concerned about timelines and other such unnecessary specifications.  My experience of a jeep ride from Kathmandu to Jiri is the prime example. Originally informed the drive would take 5hrs, our group arrived a mere 12hrs later. In defense, a landslide had occurred which blocked the main road. Therefore, the drive undertook back roads of wet mud, steep hills and unpaved highways. On multiple occasions, my two comrades and myself were ordered to evacuate the vehicle into shin-high mud and begin pushing our “jeep” (miniature van with donut wheels is more accurate) up slick hillsides and to walk up ourselves, reentering the vehicle at the top. Regardless of the days eventfulness and the hour of arrival, we were in Jiri as planned.

A hostel worker had warned us that the first day of the Jiri trek would be the most challenging, yet also shortest. Therefore, the next morning our group awoke with a vigorous excitement and determination to work hard and enjoy every drop of sweat earned. However, a few days into the trek, we came to the conclusion that the worker may have mistranslated. The first day of the trek was not the hardest; rather the entire week trek from Jiri to Lukla would be the most physically, emotionally and mentally challenging days of the 15-20 day itinerary we’d planned. Endlessly relentless valleys encumbered by boulder steps and unmarked yak trails blended the days together. Monotonous climbing of mountains to descend down into valleys to sleep, awake, and climb back out and descend again into the next. Average days consisted of 7hrs of trekking, while some longer days passed 9hrs. Additionally, the route traversed through rainforest scenery. With the end of monsoon season approaching, we were caught amongst rainstorms that turned trails into muddy rivers and steps into chocolate waterfalls. The overall image reminded me of Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory, but substitute the Oomba-Loompa’s with blood sucking leeches. Within the first few days, all clothes were drenched from rain, sweat or blood. Conversations about hygienic conditions were outlawed amongst the group, as the acceptance of our less than pleasant conditions was inevitable.

Although the drudgery might deter some travelers, the remunerations were far greater. Nepali locals greeted us with open arms and genuine smiles. Every pass was an exchange of Namaste and joyful intrigue. On several occasions, our group was informed that we were the first western visitors in several months. Bottomless Dal Baht, cultural knowledge galore and vast, unaltered nature filled our days. Along the trail, throughout the entire week, I met six other trekkers (whom we inevitably became friends with). There were three groups of three and it became a miniature race of one passing the other and all virtually ending at similar locations and exchange experiences from the day.

My last six days were spent alone. I departed my friends in Namche and went my own to Gokyo. Resulting from the incredible endurance gained after the Jiri trek, I reached the famous lakeside town in only two days. Misty mountain clouds engulfed the valley when I arrived so that all my eyes could see was eerie prayer stones and cobbled shorelines. Exhausted, I retired for the evening immediately upon being situated. The next morning unveiled my reward. Ice blue pristine lakes with cascading mountains reflected like a mirrors to bewilder the eyes, yaks roaming through fields while collared bells chime the mountain culture songs and Gokyo Ri Peak watching over the glacier valley like a protective entity. All the stress before arriving, sweat from trekking, pain from exhaustion was gone. Moments like this are the sorts of dreams. Moments like this are the reason we travel. Moments like this are the reason I live.  

Though I don't normally include trip specifics (as far as money spent), I think this is useful information for anyone wanting to trek alone like me. Below is the cost breakdown and specifications of my trek. 

Jiri to Gokyo Trekking Destinations and Times:

DAY TWO

Jiri to Shivalya

4hrs. Trekking

DAY THREE

Shivalya to Kenja

9.5hrs. Trekking

DAY FOUR

Kenja to Himalayan Lodge (just below)

7hrs. Trekking

DAY FIVE

Himalayan Lodge to Renja

9.5rs. Trekking (I got lost)

DAY SIX

Renja to Kharikhola

5.5hrs. Trekking

DAY SEVEN

Kharikhola to Surke

6hrs. Trekking

DAY EIGHT

Surke to Monjo

5.5hrs. Trekking

DAY NINE

Monjo to Namche

2.15hrs. Trekking

DAY TEN

Namche Rest Day

DAY ELEVEN

Namche to Dole

4.5hrs Trekking

DAY TWELVE

Dole to Gokyo

4.5hrs. Trekking

DAY THIRTEEN

Gokyo to Gokyo Ri Peak

5hrs. Roundtrip

DAY FOURTEEN

Gokyo to Namche

8hrs. Trekking

DAY FIFTEEN

Namche to Lukla

6hrs. Trekking

DAY SIXTEEN

Lukla to Kathmandu

45min Flight

Jiri to Gokyo Cost Breakdown:

·      TIMS Hiking Permit = $20

·      Hiking Permit #1 = $20 (only required if not flying into Lukla)

·      Hiking Permit #2 = $30

·      Jeep Transport to Jiri = $70 (landslide detour resulted in extra cost)

·      Gear and Clothes Shopping = $175

·      Storage in Kathmandu = $5 (18 days)

·      Flight Lukla to Kathmandu = $165 (one-way)

·      3 weeks “Adventure” Insurance = $130

·      30-day Nepal Visa on Arrival = $40

·      Jiri to Namche Food and Accomdation = $150

·      Namche to Gokyo to Lukla = $160

J

Any further questions? I am happy to help.

My Inner Goddessssss

Reaching the end of three weeks spent not only in Bali yet specifically within Ubud is quite a mental shock. Time seemed unable to touch our days here as we passed through life balancing yoga class and massage time or smoothies and a good spiritual chat. Yet, somehow, our escape has been thwarted. Today served as the first farewell for one of the dear friends I made here in Ubud. With his absence, the brutal reminder that we are all leaving soon became apparent. After traveling out of a backpack for several months, having a place and experience like Bali can be addictive. Trading dorm rooms and late night weekend travelers for monthly priced villas and lasting friendships can be an enticing upgrade. However, true to traveler nature, the comfort becomes uncomfortable. My familiarity with Ubud is strong and I feel very much at home here. The culture, the people, the food, my friends; All of it reminds me of my university town and elsewhere that I’ve lived. Sure, these last three weeks have been a highlight of my travel days. Nonetheless, I must throw myself back into uncertainty and the unknown.

With that acceptance, I do find myself already observing my days and the hustle of Ubud with an air of nostalgia. As if I’m already not present and am recalling a memory. A great many things can be classified as being only Ubud or an “Ubudian” culture. Hearing conversations about “My inner Goddess was finally released” or “I just need to recognize my Divine self” from the table next to me during lunch will of course be missed. Healers, Chakra alignments, past life regressions and various meditation techniques (included being cleansed by an aqua goddess… aka having water splashed on you while sleeping) are all stories and unique experiences that have been invigorating and sometimes humorous to listen to.

Outside of the yogi culture of Ubud, Bali’s true heartbeat is one of beauty and hospitality. A daytrip to Lake Batur resulted in Lilah and I meeting all sorts of locals. Some were spending the Sunday having a family picnic while another group was the staff of a gay bar that wants us to come bartend for a night; All so friendly, curious, welcoming and genuine. Even while walking around a small fishing village, the people were so curious by us (as this was not a tourist area) that they began walking around behind us and following. Eventually, the father asked if we’d like to kayak on the lake. Soon, Lilah and I were each in our own small wooden boats with the men of the village paddling us around their fishing area. The grandfather sang Indonesia’s National Anthem and the whole family made our day one of the best yet.

The list of beautiful experiences I’ve had in Bali is truly limitless. I am thankful for all the wonderful people, sights, culture, food and knowledge that I’ve been fortunate enough to have in my life over these last few weeks. With one week left, I plan to reflect and absorb as much more as I can. Always retaining the intention of one day returning to this Indonesian Eden. Although Thailand is labeled the Land of Smiles, I think Bali is a better contestant for that crown.

Lake Batur Photography

Another day of spontaneous adventure resulted in Leila and myself receiving a tour by the head village men of a small fishermen town in Lake Batur here in Bali. Words cannot express the beauty, hospitality and geniality of this experience. However, here are some pictures in attempt of somehow capturing the day and this lovely town life.

Wondrous Bali

I have a confession; I broke my “cleanse” today. Before jumping to any conclusions or disappointments, let me explain…

The last three days I have been excellent in denying temptation. Even on a Friday night out at the Jazz Café here in Ubud, I declined a drink and only had a pot of green tea. Yesterday, upon meeting a German friend at yoga, I passed on a social cup of coffee and instead had an “Enzyme Energy” smoothie. Needless to say, I feel I’ve been keeping my determination fairly well. However, today posed a scenario that would be ludicrous not to enjoy.

My original plan for today was to wake-up and enjoy a nice breakfast, perhaps buy some local fruit and then to take the motorbike for a drive in an attempt to find the Elephant Cave. I’ve attempted to find various temples over the last three days and each attempt has been futile. The day ends with me being lost for hours and eventually just meandering my way back to Ubud. I’m not complaining though. Those days are sometimes the most enjoyable with seeing true, local Balinese life. Although…. It would be nice to actually find something for a change.

The morning started off perfect. I found a small, hole-in-the-wall café named Tukies Café (*Note: If you’re in Bali and want to find this café there address is Main Street… no number, because you know… it’s Bali).

I had some delicious fruit with yoghurt and a green tea all for less than $2. Additionally, something that turned most tourists away when walking in yet immediately caught my fancy, the café served Balinese bakery goods (no western croissants or pain au chocolates). Knowing I’d be hungry during my drive, I bought four different treats. They were:

Dadar (A Balinese pancake with a green exterior color). No photo, I ate it too fast!

Bantal 

Stick rice with coconut and banana wrapped in a young banana leaf

Samping 

Rice flour, coconut and banana

Onde Onde 

(Owners favorite)

Sticky rice, mung bean and sesame

With a box full of goodies, I was feeling confident that my drive should prove a success! I had torn out a map from a lonely planet book that I own and had circled the location of the Elephant Cave. I began driving in the direction that I was certain to be correct. However, it was not. I ended up driving back and fourth up this main street about an hour away from Ubud three times each direction. Mind you, this was not a “tourist” area. The locals were all staring at the ding-dong blonde zipping back and fourth and back and fourth. Until finally, a local Balinese man motioned me to pull over. He asked the ever-popular question “Where are you going?”.

I laughed and pulled out my map and told him I was trying to drive to the Elephant Cave. He looked confused and said “O yes, that’s near Ubud”. That was an immediate sign to me that I am no longer “near Ubud” myself. He started to give me verbal directions and motion signals when he saw my utter confusion. He smiled and said, “Would you like me to escort you?” And just like that… I had a personal Balinese tour guide for the day.

My new friends name is Made which means he is the second born of his family. He is a local who works here in Bali at a Agro-tourism place (which I will mention later).  Today’s experience with Made may have been the most authentic, rewarding and special day I’ve had in Southeast Asia. He drove his motorbike and I followed. Along the drive he would stop and ask, “This is nice spot, would you like to make a picture?” and then continue on. He took me to a waterfall that cost less than $1 for an entry fee and he walked me down to the base of the falls (which I doubt any other guides or tourists would endure that trek).  Once there, he offered to take my picture and continued to explain some fun stories from his childhood. He pointed to the rocks that, when the water level is higher, he and his siblings used to jump from. Imaging the life of a Balinese child through Made’s stories was a new alternative to my own upbringing.

After the waterfall, Made and I drove to his Agro-Tourism business. It is called Kebune Bali (https://www.facebook.com/kebunebali.agrotourism?fref=ts). And here, my friends, is where I broke my “cleanse”. Kebune in Balinese means garden. Here at Made’s shop, there is a coffee, chocolate and tea garden. All of the beans are grown and harvested in a traditional manner. Additionally, Kebune Bali serves what is known as Luwak Coffee. A style of coffee known around the world, Luwak Coffee is harvested beans that have passed through the digestive system of the civet animal (yes, the beans come from the poop). Putri, a sweet girl working at the shop, explained the process to me.

First, the civet eats the coffee cherries and it ferments in the stomach before passing through the digestive system. The locals then find the beans and clean them in hot water. After the cleansing, the beans are dried in the sun and roasted in a traditional stone fire until black. Once black, the beans are ground and then shifted to create the coffee powder. The process after the fermentation/excrement stage is one-hour. This style of coffee is becoming internationally popular because of its unique taste and health benefits. Since the process is normally a more limited supply, a cup of this coffee can cost quite the pretty penny. Even at Paresa Resort in Thailand, a similar coffee was offered and cost $25 per cup. Yet, at Kebune Bali, it only cost $5.

Photo: Top right is the beans after being processed through the civet. Then the other beans are after the cleaning processes and having dried in the sun

 Photo: The wood fire place used to roast the beans

Another fantastic thing about Kebune Bali was that with your cup of Luwak Coffee, you receive 15 free tea and coffee samples from the various plants grown in the garden! Also, samples of the three types of chocolates made from the freshly grown cocoa beans that were a milk, caramel and orange chocolate. My favorite tea was made from the skin of the mangosteen fruit and is good for the skin, in preventing cancer and reducing stress. My favorite coffee sample was a ginseng coffee with caramel. A popular drink in Korea, the description said it had natural aphrodisiacs. When I asked sweet Putri if she knew what an aphrodisiac is, she laughed and said “It’s good for Honeymoon!” and Made chimed in and said “Yes! Father tested, Wife approved!” O the Balinese humor is my favorite.

Photo: Garden fresh spices and sugars

Photo: Cup of Luwak Coffee with a Cinnamon Stick to stir

Photo: My lovely tea and coffee samples! 

Photo: Putri, a Balinese girl

So yes, I am guilty of having both coffee AND chocolate while at Kebune Bali. However, it was at the expense of a true cultural experience and no “cleanse” is more important than the knowledge I gained.

To end our adventure, Made and I finally reached the Elephant Cave. After all the fun and unique places he’d taken me, I was not as thrilled once reaching this tourist picture background. Again, my guide made the experience. He told me that there aren’t even elephants in Bali and that the cave is named simply because of the statue on the inside. Once inside the cave, he blessed me with holy water that was next to the statue’s offerings. First by dipping a flower in the water and dashing my face three times, then placing three grains of rice on my forehead between my eyes and lastly having me eat three grains of white rice. He said that this aligns the mind, body and spirit, which is important. He laughed and said that now I am Balinese!

Photo: Entrance to the Elephant Cave

Photo: Traditional offerings inside the cave

Made escorted me back via our motorbikes to a main intersection in Ubud (literally impossible for me to get lost from there). Of course, I was assuming he’d want me to pay him or tip him or something for showing me around over several hours. However, he just smiled and declined the money. He said he is just happy to make a new friend who wants to learn about the culture of his island. Made gave me his phone number and said to call whenever I want a Bali guide. These are the days I wouldn’t trade for anything. I can say with all my heart; I love Bali.

Go Phi Phi!

CLIMBING IN PHI PHI

Remarkably, this past weekend was my last in Thailand. Time has truly escaped me. Or maybe I've escaped it...

Although friends invited me to party on Bangala Road one last time in Patong or to have a reggae themed beach day, I instead chose to go to Kho Phi Phi on a rock climbing adventure. Through connections and fortune, I was introduced to Rixardo who is an Italian tourism worker living in Phuket. He and his Thai girlfriend, Suprawnee, are adamant climbers who have built a personal bouldering wall in their yard and host training sessions followed by delicious homestyle BBQ's. I attended my first session on Thursday and knew these were the type of people who would be excellent climbing mentors. Rixardo is also the writer of the only Phuket climbing blog (Phuketclimbing.Blogspot.com).

Therefore, the plan was set and the three of us, along with a Russian friend named Tanya, set fourth to climb in Phi Phi. The boat ride was about 2hrs and thanks to Suprawnee being Thai and having local leverage, the cost was only 600baht roundtrip. On the boat, there was free coffee as well which of course made my morning much better (especially since we left for the pier at 7am!).

Once we had arrived in Phi Phi, I'll admit the tourism atmosphere was apparent. Boat loads of mass tourism groups from China, India, etc. charged the island by the hundreds. A swarm of sun umbrellas, rampant toddlers and oversized roller luggage set an obstacle course for us backpack wielding climbers to hurdle through. Once we safely dislocated ourselves from the herd, we began walking towards the less touristy side of the beach and towards the climbing area. Rixardo and Suprawnee chose a local bungalow that cost only 500baht a night for a private with fan and is beach front. The setting was perfect and upon check-in free the rooms provided a free water bottle along with some toiletries such as shampoo, Q-tips and body soap.

The island is truly breathtaking though. The water reflects a pristine turquoise color that changes shade to disclose the various reefs and coral life hidden below. Staggering limestone cliffs with dripping stalactites and sprouting greenery look almost prehistoric and can easily be imagined as a once submerged underwater reef. Laying underneath a palm tree on the white sandy beach and watching the water reflect drips of diamond sunlight makes it difficult to imagine why anyone could be stressed or worried.

View from the climbing sight

Longtail boat 

Tonsai Wall!

The climbing was also as pristine as the scenery! We spent the weekend climbing at Tonsai wall which was perhaps a 2-minute walk from the edge of the beach. The backdrop was the costal line and pier and could even peak over into the other side of the bay. The wall is quite exposed though and climbing is only possible very early in the morning or else after noon. Fortunately, not many tourists rock climb and so the rock was virtually ours to play on. The first day we climbed between 5-6 routes running 2 ropes and even completed a multi pitch. In total, we climbed for nearly 5 hrs and saw no one.

Each route has unique characteristics and the grades range from 5's up to 7b+. Overall, the rock quality is better than in Tonsai (Railay) because the routes are less polished and abused. Additionally, the overall route options in Phi Phi were easier than Tonsai so for beginners there is a wider range of options.

Rixardo attempting to send a 7b+

Suprawnee on Lead

A recommendation for those intending to climb in Phi Phi: Watch out for the monkey's! There were whole families of monkeys walking around the climbing site and they are often curious and even little thieves. Plus, they can get aggressive. Pay attention to your surrounding and watch out for the Alpha Male! If they bare their teeth, step away slowly. Also, always let them pass first and just be patient.

The second day I completed a (soft) 6b which was incredibly exciting for me since that's the hardest grade I've yet to do! The weekend went fast and in total we only spent about 30hrs on the actual island of Phi Phi. Apparently there is a fire show at night on the island but we had been too exhausted from the day of climbing to attend.

If you are curious about climbing and want to be introduced to the sport, Kho Phi Phi is a beautiful location to learn. There are many guide agencies on the island that can take you and provide gear, as well.

Climb on!

Mee the Monk

As a young traveler, my number one objective while visiting a foreign place is almost always to learn.  Whether about the food, the landscape, the art, the history... some aspect of each place I've visited has always enticed me to dig and learn more. This isn't true solely for foreign places. While living in Arizona, the culture and food and people were completely different than those from Washington. Everywhere is unique, just like everyone.

When I first moved to Thailand, my goal was to learn about international hospitality through my management program. Additionally, I wanted to learn about religions. I remember a few late night with my best friend Michelle in my little artist studio in downtown Flagstaff. Her and I discussed life, love and graduation. We also talked about traveling. I was about to move and she was about to experience her first international trip. One thing we promised was to begin writing. Anything. Letters to each other. Blogs. Postcards. Journals. We simply promised to begin recording our thoughts, feelings and emotions so that others may one day know they aren't alone for feeling like we do. Ya know, a little different. 20-something and not having baby fever or career dreams.

So brings me to my second learning objection about religion. I have no preconceived devotional practice or belief. I find faith to be a beautiful thing in a person. However, the idea of religion has always deterred me from the subject. In more recent years, I've come to learn that I love learning about religions because it gives a very unique insight into the person who tells me about it. What they believe, how they act, their definitions of good and bad.. it is all abstract and mysterious to me. I also feel that many arguments over religion is caused greatly from arrogance. One side blames the other without even truly understanding the other sides "views". Therefore, I took traveling abroad as another initiative to learn about various religions in order to become educated. Even if I don't find a spiritual practice that truly touches me soul; At least I've learned a new way to view the world and I can be one less oblivious bystander.

This past trip to Chiang Mai, I had the wonderful opportunity to sit down and speak with both a monk and a novice about their lives and practices of Buddhism. In many temples throughout Thailand, "Monk Chats" are hosted almost daily. The goal of the chats is to provide conversational English practice for the monks while exchanging religious and cultural knowledge with the tourist/guest. I joined a monk chat at the Wat Chedi Lang in the old town center. In total, we talked for nearly two hours.

Let me introduce you:

This is Mee. 

He is a Buddhist monk at Wat Chedi Lang in Chiang Mai, Thailand. 

He studies economics during his university time. 

This is Wiwatchai.

He is only 18 which makes him a Novice. 

He studies Teaching at University.

He's been a Novice for 2 years. 

In total, my time speaking with Mee and Wiwatchai was about 2 hrs and resulted in 7 pages of notes. Our conversation flowed from Buddhism to Thai Culture to love and so fourth. For the purpose of sharing to educate, I will state the questions I answered and then the responses. 

How does one become a monk? 

Wiwatchai: One becomes a monk because they want to learn more about the Buddha and his teaching. An individual must decide that they want to learn this and to train and practice living in morality. Before the age of 20, you must also have your parents permission. You can join at any age and it is always encouraged to have support from your family but it only required when younger. Foreigners are also welcome to become monks. However, you must have 32 working body parts. 

What is daily life like for you?

Wiwatchai: Your daily schedule depends on your temple of study. Almost every schedule is different. At my temple, I wake up at 5am and chant and do meditation. After, the novices and monks collect donations from the city people (mostly Buddhist people). We return to the temple and have breakfast and then go to university to study. Once we return to the temple we clean and sweep and do other chorus. We can go to bed when we like, I am normally around 7pm. A monk cannot chew after noon. Only water, milk and juice may be consumed so monks only eat twice a day (breakfast and lunch). Monks have three main points of study: the 3 levels of Buddha's teachings, Bali language and normal studies (university or math, science, etc.)

What is the definition of a Buddha?

Mee: A Buddha is a human who has reached enlightenment. Buddhism means to awaken and Buddha is to be awake. A Buddha makes their mind empty and natural. There is not good or bad. It is called the Middle Way. A Buddha simply lets life happen. A Buddha learns that nothing belongs to you; beauty, strength, material belongings... nothing belongs to you. To desire or to want only leads to suffering. Yet, life is a natural cycle that we have little control over. A Buddha understands and knows that things are impermanent. 

How has Western culture coming to Thailand influenced the practice and study of Buddhism? Are there more temptations or does it make the study more difficult? 

Mee: Western culture is the same as any culture, there is some good and some bad. However, it does not make studying Buddhism any more or less difficult. Western culture is temptation. Temptation has always been around, its essence is the same. However, the modern form has changed from those of the past. Today people want technology or nice houses, in the past perhaps it was gold and silver. The essence of want and desire leading to suffering is the same. Western culture did not bring that here, it has always been and always will be.

What do the serpents on all the temples represent? I see them on the roofs and bridges and doorways, are they significant? 

Mee: I am not sure, there are many stories and perhaps different meanings for different temples and regions. I know of one story. It is a fairytale. Once, while the Buddha was alive and meditating, the Naka watched him practice and was very moved. When the Buddha reached enlightenment and began sharing his teachings, the Naka wished to learn. Therefore, the Naka changed his shape into that of a human and came to the Buddha asking "please, let me be a student. I wish to learn". The Buddha, however, knew that it was the Naka and not a person. The Buddha said he cannot teach the Naka because he is not human and has come in an unnatural form. However, that anyone may practice his teachings and that the Naka will be remember throughout Buddhism to symbolize those who cannot be monks but can live the life of a Buddhist. To this day, the Naka has been present to remind us that only the natural may become monks but everyone is welcome to practice. The Naka is also known as the "one who wore the white robe" meaning it was an animal who strongly believed in Buddhism. Now, when a novice or new monk joins a temple, they too will wear a white robe for a few days.

Those were the majority of the questions I asked Mee and Wiwatchai. However, I did gain some basic information randomly that I jotted notes of. Here is that messy congregation of facts:

Mixing Pot of Knowledge!

• DID YOU KNOW? - Like in many religions, Buddhism has a New and Old Precept. For example, in the old precept, a monk cannot participate in physical activity such as playing sports or exercising. However, the new precept sees that as acceptable and encourages activities such as yoga. Most of this has to do with the region. Southern Asia tends to practice more Old precept while northern regions are more new and adapted. 
• Depending on your level of Buddhism, there are different rules you must follow. As a monk, Mee must follow 227 rules! Wiwatchai, as a novice, must follow 10. An everyday Buddhist person not studying at a temple is encouraged to live by 5. 
• Robe colors do not signify any specific rankings, significance, etc. In Buddhism, the robes tend to be natural in color tones so orange, grey, brown and dark red are common.
• Different Buddhists have different opinions on the idea of being vegetarian and its benefits towards their practice. Mee and the monks of Chedi Lang have the saying:

"As long as we see, 

as long as we know, 

as long as we wonder"

• Meaning that if they see the animal being killed, the know it was killed for them or they wonder if it was, then it is unacceptable. However, when receiving offerings from the city people, if meat is given some monks consider it acceptable to eat. 
• However, the following are forbidden meat regardless: Tiger, snake, elephant, horse and human.

That was the basic educational session I had at Wat Chedi Lang. Afterwards, feeling rather blissful, I walked around the Wat and took some photos and was fortunate enough to see a monk meeting (?). All the monks and novices were gathered for a teaching in which guests were allowed. A great way to end such an educational day. 

Hopefully this insight can help any curious minds and heart. 

Another Round of Chiang with a little bit Bang

My heart just couldn't take it, I had to return to Chiang Mai. Within a week of being back in Phuket, I was having Khao Soi dreams. Additional to my wandering fantasy of life in Northern Thailand, this trip had extra motivation because the Ultimate Frisbee team was hosting their first Chiang Mai Beach Hat Tournament! Therefore, my fate was sealed.

However, this time I added a short stop in Bangkok before heading over to Chiang Mai. I spent about 3 days in Bangkok and I must say I probably wouldn't have enjoyed the city except for the good company I was blessed with. A friend of a friend of an ex-manager of mine (quite the connection, eh?) is living in the city and was generous enough to let me stay at his apartment. John was a wonderful host who took me to the Museum Siam, a wine and cheese party and then out to the famous Sirocco bar. Sirocco has been featured in the Hangover II movie and is also the highest open air bar in the world! We had a fancy night of cocktails and dress up.

Nonetheless, as I said before, Bangkok didn't have much of a BANG to me. Maybe it's because I'm not a huge ping-pong show and nightclub kind of girl, but 3 days was plenty of time. I paid merely $28 to take an overnight sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai that took about 12hrs. I know what you're thinking, "12hrs on a train?!". Let me tell you; it was fantastic. I highly recommend asking for the bottom bed because you get to lay down with your curtains pulled shut and watch all the passing scenery. Plus the beds are more comfortable than most of the one's I've had at guesthouses! Conclusion: Train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is the way to do it right!

I arrived to Chiang Mai a few days earlier than planned and so my hostel reservations hadn't started. Just to try and explore a new business, I went to a different hostel than the one I'd be staying in over the weekend. The location was perfect because, again, it was next to the climbing gym :) However, the overall atmosphere was loud and full of younger crowds. (God, listen to me... younger crowds? I'm 22. But trust me, there are young travelers and mature travelers... it doesn't necessarily have to do with age).

A business I forgot to mention in my last Chiang Mai blog but that really deserves some traveler love is Kalapela Tea (https://www.facebook.com/kalapela.tea?fref=ts). As a visitor, they were one of the most hospitable businesses I've had the pleasure of experiencing here in Thailand. And for being in the Land of Smiles, that's really saying something! The owner spoke with me about Thai culture, language and tea for quite some time. He even wrote down some cuisine I should try. The best part was the fruit and tea samples! I tried the Jasmine tea (Jasmine is my Thai nickname so he deemed it fitting) and it was simply divine. The owner said they do a blend of black tea with the jasmine and that gives it the favorable flavor. If you're ever in Chiang Mai and craving a classy atmosphere for some quality coffee, tea and service... go to Kalapela Tea. End of that story.

Ok, continuing on! Over my first few days I did my typical Chiang Mai routine of rock climbing, eating and playing pick-up frisbee. The new experience came when I decided to take my moped to Chiang Rai to see the White Temple. Unlike my last moped drive to Pai, I decided to do the trip to Chiang Rai in one day... that was 7hrs of moped driving time in total! However, the scenery was gorgeous with plenty of fun coffee shops along the way and even a few ruins.

Once to the White Temple, I was simply in awe. The white statues with glass fragments were truly something to marvel. Additionally, the temple was not home to the typical figures seen. This temple showcased demons, a pit of twisted hands clawing at the sky and various other dubious characters. Inside the actual temple, the mural is a work in progress as I witnessed painters adding details and perfections. Again, a rather untraditional mural: The painting displayed a Buddha on top of a somewhat demon looking dragon head with flying long tail boats (with literal wings) that was carrying happy, smiling Thai people. Below the flying boats was various pop culture references from history, politics, movies, books and more. One specific image I recall was the Twin Towers of America and they were on fire as a double-headed serpent was twisted around one of them. The serpents tail was coming from a gas pump.... very unique idea. Finally, below the characters seemed to melt into what could be assumed as "Hell". Quite an untraditional temple! Later, out of curiosity, I researched the artist and specifically his motivation behind the temple.

The idea behind the temple is basically the purity and emptiness of one's mind when attempting to reach enlightenment through Buddhism. Hence, the lack of color is similar to the lack of thought inside the mind. It should be pure and vacant. The reaching hands that are below the bridge in order to cross into the temple symbolize desire and temptation reaching towards the guest. One must resist reaching for desire in order to enter the "mind of Buddhism". Finally, the mural inside the temple is therefore an interpretation of modern forms of temptation (money, lust, etc.) seen through culture. After reading the purpose and intent behind the temple, I gained a better insight and appreciation. At first it was just a little, well, shocking.

Once back in Chiang Mai, I switched to my friend Ton's new hostel called Hug Hostel (https://www.facebook.com/HugHostelandadventure). Ton is a fantastic friend of mine whom I met playing pick-up frisbee during my first trip to Chiang Mai. He is a generous and knowledgable host and his guesthouse is beautiful! They have only been open for a few weeks and the design is very clean and modern. The room rates are reasonable and the atmosphere is incredibly welcoming. I was so relieved to switch here after having been at the party hostel for two nights.

Finally, the day arrived - FRISBEE TIME!

Now for those of you who are new to the idea of Ultimate Frisbee, let me start by saying that yes: It's a sport. For this particular tournament, players register individually and then teams are drawn by pulling names from a hat (Hence the term "Hat Tournament"). There were 7 players per team and during play that meant there would be 6 on the field with 1 sub. Games were played to 7 points and you score a point by catching a disc inside the in-zone. That is your basic introduction to the sport, youtube more if interested ;)

I was fortunate enough to be drawn on an awesome team! We named ourselves the Ho-Riders and were a conjunction of players, both new and experienced, from around the world. Justin from China, Ekk from Thailand, Ika from Spain, me and Brandon from America - it was great! To make things better, we were all competitive but also good spirited players. We had so much fun and even made it to the finals! Several games went to Universe point and it was a great day full of competition and laughter. In total, us Ho-Riders played 7 games of beach Ultimate and made it to the championship game. Although we lost, I am so proud of our team for claiming 2nd place. We played hard and were supportive and helped each other learn many skills from just one day of play. Ho-Riders riding dirty!

Exhausted from a full day of playing (and of course the after party, there is no Ultimate tournament without an equally awesome after party but the happenings of that night are better left to memory than public readings :) ) my Sunday was very lazy. I spent most of it sleeping and eating and walking the weekend market. My favorite moment from Sunday came from getting my massage. I returned to a small parlor that I had been my previous trip. The lady was so adorable and sweet, plus the massage was cheap and very good! When I returned, she remembered me and continued to impress me with her skills for being so small! After my massage, we sat and had tea together. She and I talked about where in Thailand I've been and how her business was doing (things had been slow but were getting better) and other various topics. She even said she could tell I'd been eating lots of good Thai food because I was "more" -> aka I'd gained weight! She laughed and slapped my belly and said "It's good, so sexy body". Hard to be upset when someone is so adorable. Once I went to leave, she hugged my waist. Literally, my waist, her had barely came above my belly button, and she said that she doesn't own a camera but that she "wants to make picture with me". Sadly, I did not have my camera! I promised to return to her parlor again if I'm back in Chiang Mai. For those curious souls, the parlor is called Dok Koon Massage. There is not website but treat yourself by stopping there if you're ever in the town!

Well, that about wraps up my Chiang Mai and Bangkok trip. Except one important event; I had the pleasure of sitting down with a Buddhist monk who is studying at Wat Chedi Lang and he and I discussed life and Buddhism for nearly 2hrs. I took many notes and gained a wonderful insight into the lives of monks and the Buddhist religion. However, since this is a topic I feel was important and special, I will be posting a separate blog specifically for our chat.

Lots to say, so little time!